Warning: Creating default object from empty value in /home/pauvid1/BRUNOCHEMEL.COM/wp-content/themes/canvas/functions/admin-hooks.php on line 160
Archive | Main RSS feed for this section
CanardOrange2

Canard à l’orange

We have been very busy in the kitchen developing and testing new recipes. One of them is an old classic that we reinterpret every year : the canard à l’orange – duck with oranges. As mentioned before, the traditional recipe calls for an oven roasted duck, a sauce gastrique (caramel, vinegar, duck stock and orange juice and zest reduced) and fresh oranges. The duck is usually served in two times : the breasts with the sauce and oranges, then the legs are roasted for a longer time and served over fresh salad.

Keeping this elements in mind, we came up with this new design. First, we spread a layer of julienned fresh yellow beets – reminding of the salad – tossed in orange vinaigrette, we add cooked and cubed red beets, legs confits, sous-vide duck breast that we caramelize with honey and spices. Lastly, we add a couple of orange segments and blood orange pulp explosions.

Seduced by this combination of flavors? Here is a home recipe to prepare on a special occasion :

Canard à l’orange
Pan-seared duck breast- crispy skin, balsamic-orange gastrique, orange gelee agar agar, beets,  potatoes and baby carrots.

Yield: 6 servings        

Ingredients:
3 duck magrets (breasts)
4 oranges
1 lemon
salt
1 cup of sugar, divided (1/3 cup for simple syrup +2/3 cup for gastrique)
1 teaspoon white pepper
2/3 cup balsamic vinegar
2/3 cups orange juice
2 cups of brown duck stock
1/8 ounce or 4g of agar agar (you need to buy it in a form of a thread)
3 medium beets
12 small or 6 medium Yukon gold potatoes
18 baby carrots
½ cup of olive oil
Ground spices (fennel seeds, cardamom, anise)
Micro-greens for garnish

  1. Prepare a citrus marinade by combining 2 teaspoons of orange zest, 1 teaspoon of lemon zest, salt, 2 tablespoons of honey, white pepper and spices; set aside.
  2. Place duck breasts on a cutting board. Score the fat side of the duck in a criss-cross pattern.  Season the with salt. Warm a heavy bottomed skillet over medium heat without any oil. Place the duck breasts, fat side down in the skillet to render off the fat – about 6 min. It is better to cover if you can and remove the melted fat a couple of times during this time. Turn the breast over then sear for about 30 seconds. Just before plating brush the fat side with honey and ground spices and caramelize fat side for about 2 minutes.
  3. For gastrique sauce, make dark -almost burnt- caramel with sugar and deglaze with balsamic vinegar. Add orange juice and duck stock. Reduce until the sauce is à la nappe (thick enough to cover the back of a spoon). Finish the sauce: salt and pepper to taste, check consistency and flavor.
  4. Prepare agar agar : mix 1 cup of water with the agar agar and bring to a boil.
  5. Create simple syrup – called Baumé 30 degrees- by cooking 1/3 cup of sugar and 1/3 cup of water until clear; boil for 1 minute. Peel the oranges (keep the peels of one orange), add orange pulp (remove skin) to syrup, and cook for 3 minutes. Mix in the agar agar and pour into a square-shaped silicon mold (you can use a mold for ice-cubes). Cool at room temperature. When set, you should obtain small dice.
  6. Slice the orange peel into thin segments. Add segments to the gastrique sauce.
  7.  For vegetables: tourné potatoes; steam. Reserve for garnish. Prep baby carrots batonets; steam. Reserve for garnish. Prep beets, steam, reserve for garnish.
  8. To plate: On a plate, spread a tablespoon of room temperature gastrique sauce, display slices of duck magret on top. Place all vegetables and orange confit cubes. Add a few micro-greens. Serve immediately.

Enjoy!

Comments { 0 }
Jonathan-2

Introducing Sous-Chef Jonathan Pace

Jonathan :”I was born and raised in Cleveland Ohio. Although my passion for fine fare started early at my grand mother’s table – her strawberry rhubarb pie or beef pot pie are some of my earliest and fondest food memories – I didn’t really start cooking until college. My interest grew so  much  during those years, that I decided to attend culinary school right after I graduated.  I was interested in all types of cuisines but tended to gravitate towards ones using asian ingredients.  I decided to work in Hawaii hoping that there, I would be exposed to various asian cuisines and would have access to some of the best and hard to obtain tropical ingredients. This first experience allowed me to grow a lot as a young cook. I even started to create new dishes. As my learning appetite wasn’t yet satisfied, I decided for my next culinary adventure to be completely different and to happen in Europe. So I moved to Copenhagen, Danemark, where I had the great opportunity to work at Noma – winner of the S.Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2011.  There I learned about high standarts and creativity around unique ingredients (the restaurant’s crew was exploring the Nordic regions discovering outstanding foods and bringing them back to Denmark for us to cook).

At Baume I am contributing to creating and executing the menu while expanding my technique and repertoire.  Creating new dishes and experiencing food in new ways is what drives me every day.”

Comments { 0 }
62degreeEgg-2

62 degrees

A couple of weeks ago at Baumé Restaurant we installed a new Menu box that is located to the left of the entrance door. In that box we display the tasting menu options and the list of ingredients being currently used, a list that changes constantly with the farmer’s market’s offerings. If you read the list, you might be surprised to see a 62-degree egg. Why 62 degrees? Is it a cold or a warm dish? Which temperature scale are we talking about? Those are the questions that most of our clients ask, and that I am past due answering in this blog.

62 degrees (Celsius) is known as the temperature at which the egg white is cooked. The egg yolk does not start the cooking process until it reaches 68 degrees. So, by cooking the egg at 62 degrees, we keep the egg yolk liquid, nice and warm, and cook the egg white to a creamy, soft texture that melts in your mouth.

If you think that this recipe is only available to us thanks to modern cuisine and the tinkering of  foodies/chemists, you may be surprised to learn that this cooking technique has been used for more 1500 years in Japan and is called “onsen tamago”. Onsen tamago are eggs, slow cooked in hot springs, that were and still are served with local condiments. Sometimes natural resources are a great source for cooking inspiration!

We use the silky and smooth egg as a base for multiple variations such as an artichoke cream and prosciutto, ratatouille, etc. Bon appétit!

Comments { 3 }
Ratatouille-1

Ratatouille

I am sure you have heard of this traditional dish from Provence at least once. You might have found it on the menu of a French restaurant here in the Bay Area, tried it during a trip to South East France, or just seen it on screen – even prepared by a mouse!

Ratatouille comes from Nice -the full name of the dish is “Ratatouille Niçoise”.  It is an Occitan dish and is traditionally prepared with eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes. The vegetables are combined either at the end or the beginning of the recipe as its name lets us predict – tatouiller in old French means toss together. Now, there is still a debate as to which vegetables are included in the traditional recipe and how to combine them. Some add bell pepper, some others are even more daring with carrots or even mushrooms. Some dice the vegetables, others cut them in thin slices. As for the cooking process, there is still a fiery debate between advocates of separate cooking of each vegetable then mixing and those who like cooking all the vegetables at once. Even the cooking method (pan frying, baking etc.) is left to individual interpretation.

My personal preference goes to simplicity. In all the different versions we favor at Baumé, I limit the number of ingredients to the most traditional ones and play with cooking techniques. In the one seen below, I only use tomatoes, zucchinis and eggplants, and I complement the charbroiled baby vegetables with a candied tomatoes sauce.

At home, using a flameproof casserole,  you can pan fry (separately) coarsely chopped onions, eggplants, zucchinis then toss them together with herbs and add peeled tomatoes as in the recipe below :

Ingredients :

1 large yellow onion

3 mediumItalian eggplants

4 medium green zucchinis

2 medium yellow zucchini squash

2 bell peppers

6 medium sized tomatoes (peeled)

1 tablespoon of freshly chopped parsley

4 sprigs of fresh thyme,

4 garlic cloves (chopped)

4 bay leaves

olive oil, salt pepper.

Steps :

1. Slice the onion,

2. Chop the rest of the vegetables into 1/2 inch dice.

3. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a flameproof casserole over medium heat and start with frying the onions with the garlic. Stir them for about 5 minutes then remove them from the casserole and reserve.

4. Repeat the same process with the eggplants, the zucchinis and the bell pepper.

5. Toss all the vegetables together, then add the tomatoes, thyme, bay leaves, salt pepper and let them simmer for 45 minutes to one hour.

This recipe can be reheated a few times, it gets better and better each time. Enjoy!

Comments { 0 }
DuckPeach-2

Canard à l’Abricot

You are probably familiar with the traditional French dish : Canard à l’Orange (roast duck with orange sauce). I have experienced with several versions of this culinary landmark before settling on something more light and versatile than the original recipe.
The traditional Canard à l’Orange is a complex combination of roasted duck, a tangy duck stock and orange peel reduction (in other words, sauce) and the fruit itself. The duck stock is prepared with duck giblets, neck and wing ends, carrots, onions, a beef broth and other condiments. Then, it is mixed with a sweet and sour vinegar reduction. The result is a tangy, meaty sauce, that complements the roasted—almost caramelized—duck very well.
True enough, I enjoy going back to my roots, and exploring the traditional ways of cooking with a brand new approach. In fact, my main interest in cuisine is to use innovative techniques to improve a recipe, enhancing the taste of its various components and/or making a lighter, healthier version of  it.
That is why the Canard a l’Orange has become, at Baumé, Canard à l’Abricot (roast duck with apricots) or Canard à la Pêche (roast duck with peach), for those fruits are now in season and also bring a tangy flavor to the duck meat. I like to replace the duck and orange sauce with an aged balsamic vinegar espuma that perfectly weaves sweet and sour notes into this dish without adding any heaviness to it.

Although I like to go back to my roots and re-study the traditional ways of cooking, my main interest in cuisine is to use new techniques to improve a recipe, to enhance the taste of its different components and/or make a lighter, healthier version of  it.

That is why the Canard a l’Orange has become a Canard à l’Abricot (roast duck with apricots) or Canard à la Pêche (roast duck with peach) for those fruits are now in season and also bring a tangy flavor to the duck meat. I like to replace the duck and orange sauce with an aged balsamic vinegar espuma that perfectly weaves sweet and sour notes into this dish without adding any heaviness to it.

At home, you can use a few drops of aged balsamic vinegar (I highly recommend at least 25 years aged vinegar of Modena) and it will do the trick.

Comments { 0 }
ElysianLamb_0007

Elysian fields lamb and a recipe from Provence

“Elysian Fields Lamb and Celery Risotto with Truffle Saveur” is one of this Spring’s favorites on our tasting menu. Of course, “Elysian Fields” does not mean that we import our meat from some exclusive butcher shop on the famous Parisian avenue. It does mean though that we have selected one of the best places to procure our lamb meat: a farm in Pennsylvania where the lamb is raised thoughtfully, with respect for the nature of the animal and with care for the environment where it lives.

We have a direct relationship with the producer, and we know that they treat their animals very well. We also know that they monitor and gather data about their growth and their feeding. And they make sure that it shows on their clients’ plates.

The result is an exceptionally tender meat, with a profound red color that contrasts beautifully with the white crystalline fat marbled throughout.If you have  access to great lamb meat, you can prepare a great summery plate in just a few minutes (provided you bear in mind to marinate the meat 24 hours in advance).

This recipe calls for fresh “herbes de Provence”. This traditional seasoning from the South-East of France is typically available dry. To enjoy the full flavor of the herbs, however, it is best to have them freshly chopped. It pairs beautifully with lamb meat.

All it takes is a few lamb rib chops, a few fresh herbs and zucchinis :

Ingredients (for 2 plates) :

4 lamb rib chops

2 zucchinis (medium sized)

Fresh “herbes de provence” (thyme, rosemary, edible lavender, sage and parsley).

A few drops of balsamic vinegar

Olive oil, salt, pepper

Steps :

Wash the herbs, remove the stems and chop them thinly.

Spread the herbs and olive oil on the meat, and let it marinate for 24 hours in the fridge.

The next day, cut the zucchinis in 2- to 3-inch long slices.

Grill the meat and the zucchinis, add salt and pepper, and transfer them to a plate. Add some fresh herbs, olive oil and balsamic vinegar on the zucchinis, et voilà! Your lunch plate is ready..

Comments { 0 }
PICASSO_Le_pigeon_aux_petits_pois_1911

Crispy squab and fresh peas

Vibrant, fresh ingredients provide me with my daily inspiration for Baumé Restaurant’s tasting menu. We select them and work with them at the peak of their aliveness and flavor. Consequently, we hope to surprise you with beautiful, crisp, delicious bites.

Fresh green peas — straight off the vine and right out of the pod — are at their best in spring and early summer. At this time of the year, the pods are smooth and green, the pea is tender but not floury.

One of my Spring dishes is the old French classic : “pigeon aux petits pois” (squab with peas).

As illustrated below by this famous painting—which was unfortunately stolen from the Museum of Modern Arts in Paris in 2010—I love to play with deconstructing the classics and building on them to enhance each part of the recipe.

Picasso : Le pigeon aux petits pois

The thought of glazed ducks gave me my starting point for working the squab. I wanted to reproduce their crisp, sweet and savory, spicy skin yet preserve the tenderness of the meat. I tailored that process to the subtlety of squab meat by adding the right spices, honey, and by adapting the cooking style. The result is this refined, juicy and crisp bite that we enhance with a few zesty drops of balsamic reduction on the plate.

In the classic recipe the peas are boiled in the the pan with the pigeon meat and broth. As we strive to preserve their freshness and like to play with textures and colors, we modified their cooking process. Fresh, lightly blanched bright green peas are presented against a tube of creamy pureed ones.

With these plates, I hope not only to satisfy your appetite but also to excite your curiosity.

Bon Appétit!

Comments { 0 }
http://valuesandcapitalism.com/where-can-i-buy/generic-seroquel-online.html, http://valuesandcapitalism.com/where-can-i-buy/generic-celebrex-online.html#celebrex, http://valuesandcapitalism.com#buy-online, http://valuesandcapitalism.com#buy-online, derbydinner.com, actos online, pharmacy online, pharmacy online, actos online, http://www.yourwildlife.org/online-generic-medications/order-doxycycline.html#doxycycline, www.yourwildlife.org