Tag Archives: Chocolate
Tart-18web

Tarts and their crust

Tarts. As most of you probably know, tarts are baked desserts that consist of two elements: crust and filling.

Today, I’d like to introduce you to some of the many opportunities that a cook has to make a pie’s crust an interesting part of the play. It might seem a little challenging at first glance but with a little planning and cunning, your final result will surprise and delight you.

There are so many crusts to choose from. One could fancy a fluffy, buttery puff pastry dough for a crunchy base; a sugar dough to complement a tangy filling; a “pâte brisée” for sweet fillings; an arlette for a thin, crunchy, sweet base like in the tartelette below, etc.

The filling is the most important factor in choosing your crust. I can’t overstate how important it is to find a perfect match between both elements. Think in terms of balance of flavors, sweetness, complementary textures, visual aspects and accents.

The classic example is the tarte tatin. The lukewarm, soft, generously caramelized and lightly spiced plump apples are calling for a crunchy light crust. Using puff pastry dough will give a perfect contrast in textures, without adding too much sweetness to the already sweetened filling (the apples).

With regard to accents, a good example is our “Tarte Exotique”. We are using an “Arlette” (puff pastry dough, rolled with spices, then flattened in powdered sugar) in order to  add sweetness and crunch to the soft texture of the mango and lychees and the tangy flavors of the mango-citrus pearls. The filling is clearly the star of this tart, but the crust does not go unnoticed. A discreet but efficient smidgeon of spices allows us to perfectly tailor the flavor of the dough to our choice of fruits. Cardamom, freshly cracked pepper, cinnamon, are just a few examples of spices that can revamp a basic pie crust.

Also, be realistic about how much time you have at your disposal. For instance, puff pastry dough requires more wait time than a sugar dough or a “pâte brisée”, for the layers are the result of folding the dough and letting it sit in the fridge between each folding session. Generally, it is important to know that most doughs have to sit in the fridge for at least a couple of hours before you can roll them into a mold. Most can be prepared in advance and left in the freezer until needed.

Here is an easy recipe for a sugar dough that can be used with apricots, raspberries, strawberries, rhubarb, and other tangy fruits.

Ingredients :

125 g butter

125 g sugar

250 g all purpose flour

1 egg

1 vanilla bean

1 pinch of salt

2 tbsp of glucose syrup (optional, yet adds elasticity to the dough)

a pinch of fresh cracked pepper

Steps :

Cut the butter into small pieces. Knead the flour with the butter. Scrape the seeds of the vanilla bean.

Make a hole in the center and add sugar, syrup, vanilla, salt and the whole egg.

Mix the ingredients without lingering until you obtain a homogeneous dough, then form a ball and let it cool in the fridge for 2 hours.

Then roll and transfer onto a tart mold. The crust is ready for the filling!

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ChocolateCandyMaking

Fine chocolate, excellence and a little bit of history

For as long as I can remember, chocolate has always been a special reward for me – from little treats when I was a kid to the mastery of the precise and demanding confectionary art. During my childhood in Moulins, the highest form of  brownie point my parents could bestow on me was a box of chocolates called “Palets d’Or”.

Palets d'OrMoulinsThe shop that sells them is one of the most famous chocolatiers in the region and boasts a noteworthy historical background. The Palet d’Or was created in the late nineteenth century by Bernard Serardy, a Master Chocolate maker who pioneered the use of golden leaves as an ornament for the candy. Palets d’Or were offered as gifts at every social occasion and became so notorious that the pupils from Moulins’ School of Fine Arts, under the orders of Italian painter Galfione, turned the little shop into a golden sweet box with incredibly beautiful moldings and a stunning painted ceiling. If you are traveling to central France, this boutique is well-worth a stopoff.

On my (rare) days off nowadays, I like to pull out my molds and fiddle with ganache. Even though the process takes some time and requires a great deal of precision, I find it to be a relaxing, creative activity that provides a great space for self-expression. The ganache – the real star of the candy – is where I am looking for an unique combination or an unexpected surprise. In my latest batch I have played with the subtle tanginess of yuzu, the surprising intense association between white truffle and cacao, the enticing ylang-ylang and the sweet and warm comfort of the crème de marron (chesnut cream), among others.

Chocolate is notoriously fickle when it comes to melting it down for dipping and candy making. If you miss a step it can go from silky to chalky within a couple of minutes. To avoid that, chocolate needs to be tempered. Tempering involves melting and heating it to about 110°, letting it cool to below 80°, and then bringing it back up and holding it around 90° (those temperatures are only valid for dark chocolate).  It can then be used for preparing the molds, as tempered chocolate coats things evenly, has a glossy look once it hardens, and snaps cleanly in the mouth. It also melts smoothly on the tongue. Untempered chocolate looks dull and often presents gray streaks and a grainy texture.

For chocolate amateurs who are not ready for the whole adventure, I am including here a recipe for ganache that can then be dipped in cocoa powder to make delicious chocolate truffles.

Ingredients
250 g of 70% dark chocolate
250 g (about 1 cup) of 35% whipping cream
100 g cocoa powder

Preparation
- Cut the chocolate into small pieces
- Heat the cream until boiling
- Pour over chocolate, wait for 2 minutes and mix gently with hand
mixer for about 2 minutes.
- Allow mixture to cool until set
- Scoop into desired portions and dust with cocoa powder.
- Store in a lidded container until ready to serve
(If kept at a cool temperature they will last for a few days.)

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